Archive for the ‘Automotive advice, tips’ Category

When ‘dyno testing’ is mentioned, people straight away think of showing off one’s the torque or power of one’s car.

Actually that is only one purpose of dyno testing. A computerized engine dynamometer accurately measures torque and rpm and then can accurately calculate horsepower.

Knowing your horsepower and torque gives you a solid basis for making changes in the engine’s tuning or to the engine itself. How? Easy. If horsepower and torque go up the change was likely correct, if they go down you’ll need to make some changes.

The dynamometer applies various loads on the engine and measures the engine’s ability to move the load. The dynamometer may be connected to a computer which calculates the output of the engine. The engine is run from idle to its maximum rpm and the output is measured and plotted on a graph.

Dynometers are used to measure the factors such as : crankshaft torque, intake air and fuel consumption rates, air-fuel ratio for the intake mixture,environment pollutant concentrations in the exhaust gas and temperatures and gas pressures at several locations on the engine body such as engine oil temperature, spark plug temperature, exhaust gas temperature, intake manifold pressure.

To date dyno testing is the most accurate way to determine if the fuel saving device or the bolt on turbocharger your bought for your ride is effective.

Dyno testing will not come cheap, however, it is the price anyone who wants a 100% iron clad guarantee that the performance of his engine did improve upon fitting external devices.

You’ve seen them around: family sedans with HUGE alloy rims.

Sometimes you also shake your head and wonder, all these riceboys. Don’t they realise the rim is just aesthetic and does not contribute to the car’s performance?

No they do. Let me explain.

Certain rally designed alloy rims are lighter (less weight = more speed) and also are designed to increase the cooling of the brake disks. Some designs have better build quality than others and some break very easily when hitting a pothole or curb at speed.

Always go for the best quality alloy rim that you can afford and read the reports and reviews. (Common sense lah!) Avoid buying a different overall size. If not, you’ll have to get the suspension and tracking realigned to avoid uneven wear under acceleration.

A lighter rim will improve handling because less weight is rotating around the hub so components such as suspension and brakes will last longer. The gaps in alloy rims also aid brake cooling and allow the brakes to do a better job at slowing up the car.

Big rims look ‘fierce’ but I have not found anyone yet who says that they have improved the ride or handling of their car, well, maybe higher fuel consumption.

Keep the overall rim width with tyre dimension as the OEM provided but go for a larger alloy and ultra low profile tyre if you really want the big wheel look.

Lower profile tyres are noisier and due to their low flexing they give excellent handling characteristics.

Wider alloys are much better than taller ones and improve the handling. Many users complain that taller rims affect the speed and handling adversely and cause bumpy & uneven rides.

Remember, for alloy rims, lighter is better.

Today, after a long absence from blogging due to projects, I am going back to the basic E-Brake.

Why E-Brake? Many petrolheads love to do fancy shit like heel-toe drift, inertia drift etc etc. Most forget however, that the basics are the ones that save your ass.

“Philip-san, won’t E-brake wear out my tires or won’t they burst?”

No you dummy, Bridgestone and Yokohama have tested them on gruelling conditions.

Right, lets get down to the lesson.

1) Find a large open space, maybe an empty parking lot or industrial area for practice. Avoid at all cost all sorts of obstacles, such as lampposts, which can be dangerous if you spin out of control.

2) Drive in a straight line at a moderate speed, depending upon the distance you are confident with during your drift.

3) Shift into a lower gear, allowing your car to hit above 5000 rpm. Shift into 1st gear and get ready.

4) Depress the clutch hard, feel the engage,  and steer the car into the turn. At the same time, swiftly pull up the hand brake. You will need to be quick, so that the rear wheels will lock up.

5) Dis-engage the clutch as you begin to slide, continuing to steer the car into the turn, and then accelerate. The amount of petrol injected will determine how much the rear end will spin into the turn.

6)Allow the car to slide in the right direction, manipulating the steering wheel to regain control of the car as you constantly press the accelerator. Do not let the car slow down, straighten out or gain traction until the turn is completed and you are facing the desired direction.

7) Practice, tune your mistakes and keep at it. My advice is that you do not hit the road unless you are extremely confident surprise situations won’t make you panic.

P.S: - Disclaimer here. My advice is only given through my own trial and error and watching friends perform it. I am not responsible for any injuries sustained by the individual practicing without adequate precaution.

Great, you signed up for a new Subaru. But you’ll need to get an insurance quote, and you’re not very sure how to go about it.

Oh well, been there done that. In the past, a guy like me would take time to slowly go through brochures, phamplets and insurance stuff for a decent quote.

That is until i discovered Online Auto Insurance Quote. This site is something different in the sense that is it direct. Very direct.

Ok lets take a look at the front page. This page comes with a rating system, response timing and monetary savings.

I think the functions should explain themselves. Everything is easy to understand and you don’t need to have a general insurance degree to know what’s going on.

Clicking on the each panel, it brings you to another pages, where the plus points and packages of each insurance company is listed down, e.g  AIG offers the option to use your own mechanic or body shops.

There are also other services that 3 top 3 offer, such as housing or travel insurance, but we won’t go into that.

There is also an article section that is stuffed with valuable tips and advice on automotive insurance as well as other automotive related advice.

Overall a good site, but i just wished they had used more than 3 auto insurance companies to give a more evenly balanced look at the entire scheme of things.

Online auto insurance quotes can be accessed at this URL: - http://www.autoinsuranceonlinequotenow.com/

Drifting has been glamourised in movies such as Tokyo Drift and Initial D

However not many people will tell you to wake up and concentrate on proper vehicle handling and that Drifting is actually a visual appetizer but the meat & potatoes is your handling.

That’s where the Left Foot Brake (LFB) comes in.

When driven under acceleration with no brakes applied, a front wheel drive (FWD) car will understeer when the front wheels are turned. To overcome the understeer, left foot braking is used to change brake (balance) to the rear.

By using a combination of throttle and brake you can change from understeer to neutral steer to oversteer.

Left foot braking is useful in many cases: If the road surface changes, you can change the brake balance by either adding power (accelerator) or brake pressure (braking).

What happens is this: The tire has 100% of it’s possible traction when it is rolling straight with no braking or acceleration. When you change any of these factors the tires affected will have less available traction and control slips from your grasp.

By applying brake against the throttle in a front wheel drive car, two things happen. One: The front wheels keep turning. And two: The rear wheels try to lock up. If you are in a turn, the back of the car will start to slide toward the outside of the turn.

To control or stop the slide, apply less brake and more power (this changes the oversteer toward understeer and stops the rear wheels from sliding toward the outside of the turn).

What i did with my VW Caddy Turbo was this:

I drove to a secluded area in the evening (Not to watch couples making out!) I placed some ’soccer cones’ to make a T-junction on the ground.

I got in my Caddy and practiced driving the turn trying a normal brake with my left foot.

“So basic?”

XIAO EH! (Fukienese for ’friend’) You can’t learn to LFB until you train your left leg to brake! If you have never tried using your left leg, you will find it’s like trying to write with your left hand if you are right handed.

Tough huh. Until you can drive doing the braking with your left leg, you can’t do LFB. Once you can brake with your left leg, go on to ‘lesson 2′.

Work next on the practice turn. After turning, apply the brake against the throttle (accelerator). If you did it correctly you should feel the rear of the car start to slide to the outside of the turn.

When you are pointing in the direction you want to go, let pressure off the brakes and increase the throttle. Again, if you did it correctly you will feel the car pivoting on the front wheels.

Practice makes perfect, so you need to do it again and again.

P.S: The Autospeed Guy, Julian Edgar has a post on this too. Check it out here. 

P.P.S: A word of caution -Do not try this on the road unless you have practiced for 2-3 months. I am not responsible for your severed leg on the road. 

Recently, i made friends with a top class mechanic from Australia.

Craig Wilson has ten years experience repairing and maintaining all types of vehicles, 4 years of those as owner of his own workshop.

Today he has agreed to give you, dear reader, priceless advice on what to look for when choosing a cold air intake system.

Remember, this advice is PRICELESS and you’ll have to thank Craig for that!

Take it away, mate.

 The Cold Air Intake…what you need to know to get 110% out of it!

By Craig Wilson 

To understand how a cold air intake is beneficial to engine output we first have to understand the theory behind them. Basically the cooler the air the more dense it becomes and the more oxygen it carries.

A fuel/air mix that is rich in cool, dense air is burnt faster and cleaner which produces more power which in turn produces more fun for you!

Combine a cold air intake with a free-flowing air filter and the results can be even more surprising.

There are however several things to keep in mind when looking at intake mods for your car. The good ‘ol pod filter is a popular choice to replace your factory air filter and although they do have their benefits, my opinion is that without a heat shield or cold air duct they can rob you of some horsepower.

Let me explain that a bit before you go telling all your mates that this guy on the internet says that pod filters are crap!

The majority of factory air boxes have an intake that is positioned at or close to the front of the car. This allows the engine to breathe relatively cool air that is around the front of the car.

Ripping out the airbox and replacing it with a pod filter does two things. Yes it will increase your airflow above and beyond what the original air filter could allow but it also places the filter further back in the engine bay which, you guessed it, has higher air temperatures than at the front of the car.

Many people will argue that the temperature increase is minimal and the increased airflow is enough to keep them happy. The ultimate set-up in this case would be a pod filter that is separated from the rest of the engine bay in it’s own heat resistant box and fed air from a cold air intake.

Another common mistake that I see is people fitting the ‘mouth’ of the cold air intake low down on the car, say behind a vent in the front bar. This is great if you plan on never driving through any puddles or if like me you live in Australia and there is no rain anyway, but in the real world this needs to be taken into consideration when searching for the right intake for your car.

If too much water is sucked into the air intake that expensive engine can end up a pile of junk. Water is not able to be compressed and when the piston comes up on it’s compression stroke something has to give and it is usually a conrod or piston that cries ‘enough!’

Although the designers of modern vehicles are cottoning on to the benefits of cold air induction they still have a long way to go to match the performance that an aftermarket system can provide.

The designers of the aftermarket units know where to find the coolest air and with the use of ABS plastic they can design a system that is easy to fit.

With a little bit of ingenuity and planning it is possible to manufacture your own cold air intake from scratch, however there are plenty of companies offering excellent kits to suit just about any vehicle.

K&N has a good range of replacement, free-flowing filters and complete cold air intake systems that can be fitted by anyone with basic mechanical skills. Having had fitted many of these systems over the years I can honestly say that you will be surprised at the results from such a simple modification.

Cheers,

Craig

If you’re looking for that little boost (aka Turbo kit) to give your scooby more bite than bark, read on.

After doing some searching online, I discovered 2 tuning garages which provide turbocharger kits at reasonable, if not, fantastic prices. They are:

Turbochargerupgrade kits.com (Mcwell Ventures, Singapore)

Mcwell has been in the business for years and they carry a good range of products. For Turbocharger kits, they have 3 major brands:

1) Garrett - Made in USA, if you’ve never heard of this brand, i doubt you’re a real tuner

2) IHI- Ishikawajima Harima Industries. A Japanese company which also produces aviation engines and commercial vessels. Said nuff’.

3) ZAGE Turbosystems inc.- Made in Taiwan. Go figure.

I’m not biased against the Taiwanese. It’s just that American & Japanese technology tends to be slightly ahead of them.

Right, back to turbochargerupgradekits.com. Their selling point is obvious: The kits are cheap. Maybe not dirt cheap but seriously below market rate.

Their market caters more for JDM performance makes such as the Subarus, the Nissans, and the Mitsubishis. If you own a Holden, well, let’s just say you might not be able to find anything in the inventory except the Apexi speed meter.

A good thing about Mcwell is the fact they use UPS as their default shipping company, not some dodgy little firm.

Tweakit Performance, NSW Australia

Uh oh. I don’t know where to start. Hmmm.

Tweak it Performance is huge. Their inventory list is like an IKEA mart, with hundreds of products stocked up.

They have motor oil, engine gaskets, blow off valves, turbo kits, air filters (specifically K & N), exhaust manifolds and systems….and i’ve only covered a few items.

And yes, you can get Ford & Holden here. Yippee for the muscleheads.

What drew me to them was not so much the price, although it is extremely competitive (and a little more costly than Mcwell’s) , not the huge variety, but the service.

I emailed one of their Sales Managers, a Mr. Jeremy Levartovsky. He was professional, prompt and helpful, giving me additional advice and options. Service goes a long way in making a happy customer!

But i digress. Tweakit has a wide range of Garrett turbo kits. Yes, they are more expensive than Mcwell’s. Lets be honest. But the difference isn’t much (if calculated in USD) and in fact, Jeremy’s prompt service and helpful explantion of what i really needed (and what was unnecessary) made me think the shop from down under deserved my vote.

Your call? It depends. If you’re looking for price, Mcwell wins hands down. But if you need more variety, detailed service, and don’t mind forking out a little bit more for a niche product, then i’d have to say, go with Tweakit Performance mate!

Conflict in the Middle East, Earthquakes are hitting Indonesia, planes are crashing and the price of gas is still going sky high.

Some things never change. What we can do about the gas part, though, is still slightly within our hands.

While using my old man’s CRV, i was pissed off at being unable to find a good website for my local area (Singapore) which updates the pricing of gas/petrol around the country.

My North American friends have one in Gas Buddy. It’s really comprehensive, and a bit confusing for me to read. Looks like a tutorial on economics!

But recently i stumbled upon a Singaporean page which monitors gas pricing…

Yeap. No fancy names. Petrolwatch sets out exactly to fufill it’s basic purpose: Petrol (or gas) watch!

What i understand was Petrolwatch used to be free a while ago. Of course things change over time. The news section is still free.

But to recieve SMS alerts on updated petrol prices, SMS alerts on special discounts and promotions by petrol stations, Personal Petrol Logbook and other related freebies, one has to PAY. (yes, the dreaded 3 letter Singaporean vulgarity).

For the meticulous who dread such promotions and focus on their one aim: Save gas money, there’s the price guru to help you save those few cents.

For those who love a bit of fame (or need attention to hitch yourself a chick and end your misery) there’s always ‘spotlight on your ride‘. Yes, we’ve all seen this somewhere aka pimp my ride and cardomain.com, but hey, we can always have a singapore version, can’t we, mon ami*?

*Mon Ami is ’mate/friend/buddy’ in french. If you think i am too gwailo in my speech, I will use the Singapore slang for friend: XIAO EH!

For my Singapore xiao ehs who are unfamiliar with the evil gwailo trading portal called e-bay, there is a classified section in petrolwatch for you to sell your used fake momo pedal, your china made car, whatever.

There is also a blog section (with some guy’s creepy looking photo) and a forum. Errr…please post constructive stuff in the forum. Be nice!

Conclusion? It’s a Nice *Borat style thumbs up*. But Petrolwatch is a bit too fancy. They should just stick to updates on petrol. I’m rather old school though, some may like the additional information portals, classified ads, blind dates whatever thrown in.

Just help me to save petrol and the earth. That’s an Inconvenient Truth to throw in.

I know you guys think that i’m gonna blog about some magnetic fuel device or voltage stabilizer to help you save gas.

Those things do help. But even with those devices attached, if you drive like a madman god help your fuel tank.

Here’s some basic advice from my fellow automotive expert, Mr. Mike Eggert.

Mike runs his own site at http://www.fuelfrugal.com

Gas Saving Tips - Pass the Pump or Pass the Buck

By Mike Eggert

Unless you have been living under a rock and don’t own a car, you have definitely noticed the rising cost of gasoline. Wild price fluctuations are a daily occurrence at the gas pumps.

We could debate the causes, or lack thereof, for an eternity. I have just as many opinions about the situation as the next person. But, unfortunately all the arguing over this topic won’t change a thing.

So, what can you do you ask? Well, there are many things that can be done to improve your fuel economy and improve your gas mileage. We’ll take a look at a few of the most obvious in a moment.

Aside from that, do all you can to reduce your dependency on gasoline today, and the difference will be noticed by everyone tomorrow. The only thing that can lower gas prices permanently is if there is a significant reduction in demand. Until then, expect more of the same high prices at the pump.

*Try to drive less, especially on very hot days or during peak traffic periods when you will end up sitting in traffic for longer periods of time.

*Try to riding the bus whenever possible. Or perhaps ride your bicycle, or walk to your destination. Your body will appreciate the exercise.

* Do as much of your shopping as possible by telephone, or on the Internet.

* If your job allows it, telecommute. Even one or two days a week will really add up.

* Don’t make unnecessary trips. Try to combine your errands into a single outing.

* Avoid letting your car idle for extended periods of time. Anything over 30 seconds is unnecessary.

* Instead of waiting in long drive through line at the bank or fast food restaurants, park your car and go in the lobby. You will get a bit of healthy exercise this way as well.

* Don’t accelerate more rapidly than necessary, and use your cruise control whenever you are on the highway.

* Read your owners manual, and follow the recommendations within it. No one knows better the potential for saving fuel in your vehicle than the manufacturer.

* Use motor oils that are labeled as energy conserving.

* Whenever it is possible try to limit the use of your air conditioner. An air conditioner creates a significant drag on your engine, impacting your fuel economy severely.

* Replace your spark plugs, and have regular tune-ups performed. Check your owner’s manual for recommendations.

* Check and replace your air filter regularly. A dirty air filter can have a large impact on your performance and fuel mileage.

* Have your front end alignment checked and adjusted if necessary. If your front wheels are out of alignment, it is akin to your car trying to make a left turn and a right turn at the same time, creating tremendous drag and rolling resistance on your vehicle.

*Check and adjust the air pressure in your tires to the recommended pressure rating. Again, this can cause unnecessary drag and resistance on your vehicle.

* Try to fill your gas tank during the cooler evening hours if it is possible. Filling your tank when it is hot increases the evaporation of the fuel in your tank. And be sure to replace your gas cap tightly for the same reason.

*If you service engine, or check engine light is on, have your vehicle checked by a certified automotive technician as soon as possible. Many malfunctions that can cause those warning lamps can also cause a drastic reduction in fuel economy.

Most of these tips are simply common sense, and honestly each one individually might not make that large of a difference in your fuel mileage, but added all together these tips can certainly make a noticeable difference in your fuel economy and help you save gas.

Don’t pass your bucks, pass the pump instead.

You’ve seen lots of custom cars which are overdone, half- baked.

Take a look at this Honda Inspire and you’ll go: ‘Now why didn’t i think of that?’

Mr. Neo CH’s 2003 Honda Inspire (Accord) does just that. It jumps right at your face , cutting a sleek, powerful look but not overdone with silly stickers or dumb ass GT wings.

“I don’t believe in spending loads of cash on mods. I only tune what’s needed.”

A wise man indeed. Neo, a member of the Singapore Honda Club, maintains his engine stock but let’s look at the tuning he has done, which isn’t a lot, but the end product is nice with a capital ‘N’.

Mugen Body Kit: This is the REAL thing. Neo took a while to consider paying a 4-figure sum but i think judging by the sleek and stylish curves on his Inspire, it was worth it. A fierce Mugen logo on the grille helps too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Suspension: The Honda Inspire is fitted with Tanabe NF210 Springs. Tanabe has been around in Japan for 2 decades, specializing in springs and suspension. A pretty good investment i must say.

Rims: Erm….unfortunately Neo himself isn’t sure what brand they are. He bought them 2nd hand from a fellow enthusiast who told him they were Taiwan made. Right. Least they look expensive.

Koni Shock Absorber (damper): One of the best in the business as well. Koni has been around for 40 years, specialising in motorsport aftermarket shock absorbers. Sure, something established and European must cost a bit, but it’s better than saving a few hundred then spending thousands more when some fat chick sits in your ride.

Toyo T1R Tyres: Read this review. People tend to be skeptical until they see lots of positive comments (and a few negative to balance) before they decide: ‘Must be a good product’. I used to think Toyo was a budget tyre for those who couldn’t afford the Bridgestones and the Pirellis. It’s in my shopping list now.

 

JBT 330mm Rotor Brake Kit: J What? I had never heard of them until Neo mentioned them to me. But JBT is BIG. People from the Nissan Infiniti Forums are recommending JBT. I confess my lack of knowledge about this brand, but well, you could read my link. Heh heh.

 

 

 

Other Minor Tweaks: Neo swears by maintaining a stock engine. However he did make 2 minor adjustments:

Alutec Strut bar: We will not go into the workings of a strut bar, but Alutec strut bars are made of aerospace aluminum, which has superior tensile strength and is extremely light. Hmmm. Hopefully the vehicle dosn’t fly into some tree by the side of the road.

Hurricane wire mesh filter: I used to be a fan of wire mesh filters, even blogged about them here. Unfortunately, since i’ve switched to the cotton gauze filters used by K & N, i’ve never looked back baby! Sorry Neo, but it’s time to be a K&N-aholic!

 

Stainless steel exhaust: Another unknown brand. But adds a classy touch to the Inspire. Please, please do not add big ass exhausts to little hatchbacks like the Chevrolet Aveo, or worse, the Malaysian Proton wira. The only tuning USP you will have is called ‘noise pollution’.

 

 

 

 

As i was leaving, I looked back at the Honda Inspire and realised: It isn’t hard to tune your ride to look great.

What is hard, though, is putting everything together and things don’t stick out ridiculously like a sore thumb.

Challenging? Well, my challenge to you all is this: send in custom rides with natural mods (or custom rides that are clean looking).

I will be more than happy to do free publicity for you.

No Nissan Sunny (Sentra) sedans with GT wings or ‘autobot’ & ‘NISMO’ stickers please!